Using a leaf blower can push lint out of a dryer vent quickly—if your vent is short and fairly straight. This guide shows you how to do it safely, step by step, plus when not to use this method.
TL;DR
- Works best for short, straight vents that exit an exterior wall.
- Unplug the dryer, disconnect the transition duct, and blow from the wall port to the outside.
- Seal around the blower nozzle so air pressure goes through the duct, not into the room.
- If your vent is long, has many bends, or exits through the roof, use a rotary brush kit or hire a pro.
When a Leaf Blower Method Is (and Isn’t) a Good Idea
Good for:
- One-story homes with short, straight runs (under ~20–25 ft)
- Exterior wall exits with a simple vent hood
- Metal ducting (rigid or semi-rigid) in good condition
Not good for:
- Roof vents or multiple tight elbows/bends
- Long runs (over ~25–35 ft)
- Crushed/loose ducts, plastic or flimsy foil hoses
- Shared ducts (apartments/condos)
- Suspected nests/obstructions behind screens or guards
If any “Not good for” items apply, switch to a drill-powered brush kit or call a professional.
What You’ll Need
- Electric leaf blower (cordless or corded; do not use a gas blower indoors)
- Screwdriver (for hose clamps)
- Aluminum foil HVAC tape (not cloth “duct tape”)
- Old towel/rag or foam adapter (to seal around the blower nozzle)
- Shop vacuum (optional but helpful)
- Safety glasses, mask, and a drop cloth/tarp outside
Time: 30–60 minutes
Difficulty: Easy–Moderate
Safety First
- Unplug the dryer. If it’s gas, shut off the gas valve before moving anything.
- Only use metal ducting (rigid or semi-rigid). Replace crushed/foil/plastic sections.
- Keep people and pets away from the exterior vent—lint will blast out.
- Never blow into the dryer itself. Disconnect the transition duct first.
Step-by-Step: Clean a Dryer Vent with a Leaf Blower
1) Prep & Disconnect
- Pull the dryer forward.
- Unplug (and shut off gas if applicable).
- Loosen the clamp and remove the transition duct from the wall port.
- Place a drop cloth outside under the exterior vent hood—this is where lint will come out.
2) Check the Exterior Vent Hood
- Go outside and open/inspect the vent hood.
- Remove any screen/guard (lint can get trapped here; screens are often against code for dryer exhaust).
- Make sure the damper flap moves freely.
3) Seal the Blower to the Wall Port
- Back inside, insert the leaf blower nozzle into the wall port (the duct going outside).
- Wrap a rag/foam adapter around the nozzle to seal gaps so pressure goes through the duct.
- Don’t wedge hard enough to deform the duct.
4) Blow It Out (Short Bursts → Steady Flow)
- Put on eye protection and mask.
- Start the blower in short bursts to loosen lint, then move to a steady airflow for 30–60 seconds.
- If you feel back-pressure or hear odd rattling, stop and investigate—there may be a bend, clog, or loose joint.
5) Clear the Exterior
- Outside, lint should be blasting out. Use a shop vac or gloved hands to gather large clumps.
- Ensure the damper opens fully and returns smoothly.
6) Reassemble & Seal
- Inside, remove the blower and inspect the wall port for remaining lint.
- Reconnect a semi-rigid or rigid metal transition duct.
- No screws that penetrate the airflow (they catch lint).
- Seal joints with aluminum foil HVAC tape.
7) Test Airflow
- Plug the dryer back in (and turn gas on if applicable).
- Run on high heat for 2–3 minutes.
- Outside, verify strong airflow and a fully opening flap.
- Inside, check for no leaks or unusual heat/smells.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using a gas leaf blower indoors → carbon monoxide hazard.
- Blowing into the dryer cabinet → forces lint into internal parts.
- Poor seal at the wall port → lint storm in the laundry room.
- Ignoring screens/bird guards outside → instant clog point.
- Leaving crushed/foil ducting in place → it will clog again fast.
Leaf Blower vs. Brush Kit (Quick Compare)
| Method | Best For | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leaf blower | Short, straight runs | Fast, cheap, easy | Won’t scrub elbows; can push lint into loose joints if duct is leaky |
| Rotary brush kit (drill) | Most layouts, including bends | Scrubs walls/elbows; thorough | Slower; requires careful technique |
| Pro cleaning | Long/complex/roof runs | Inspection + airflow testing; fixes issues | Higher cost |
Maintenance Schedule
- After every load: Clean the lint screen.
- Monthly: Vacuum around lint trap and behind/under the dryer.
- Every 6–12 months: Full vent clean (every 3–6 months for large families/pet bedding/heavy towels).
- Anytime: If dry times increase, room feels hot, or airflow outside is weak—clean now.
Quick Troubleshooting
- No lint came out? You may have a loose joint, long run, tight bends, or an exterior screen blocking flow. Switch to a brush kit or call a pro.
- Weak airflow after cleaning? Check for crushed ducts, stuck damper flap, or a nest at the hood.
- Burning smell? Stop using the dryer and inspect immediately.